Ceviche – The standard by which Tico bar food and restaurants are judged
by. It is a dish popular over a wide area of the world, especially Central and
South America. Perú considers it part of its national heritage and has a
holiday in its honor. Costa Ricans are very passionate about their ceviche and
it is sold in almost all bars, on the street, at roadside stands and in bulk at
seafood outlets. You can even buy ceviche in sealed plastic bags in stores and
supermarkets.
The way it is presented
can vary widely. Some bars offer a small glass while most serve it in a small
bowl shaped like a boat. All are always served with Soda crackers, a type of
Saltine cracker, and a bottle of Tabaco sauce. Basically ceviche is chopped up
raw fish, usually Mahi Mahi or Dorrado and tossed with sweet and spicy peppers,
cilantro and salt and are “cooked”, really pickled in the citric acid of lemon
or lime juice. Some chefs and cooks even put a touch of ginger or ginger ale
into the mix.
Tacos and Gallos – Tico tacos are hard tacos and almost always use a cor-flour
tortilla. They can hold anything in the way of meat, chicken, fish, cheese,
beans or whatever is really fresh. Most are made with the tortilla rolled
around the fillings and fried and may have an additional topping of ground
beans, cheese, sour cream or salad. A boca that generates
considerable confusion among visitors is the gallo. This is simply a soft, warm
corn tortilla with pieces of chicken or meat inside. Many foreigners make the
mistake of thinking that the Costa Rican gallo is a taco. In reality, only one thing
that really matters regarding gallos, is that they are delicious!
Patí – Patí is a small savory pastry filled with ground beef, onion, spices
and a touch of hot pepper, all cooked in oil, AKA “deep fried”. They are not
really very hot, at least not to me as I cannot find spicy enough food here in
Costa Rica. You will find them in shapes from half-moons to triangles. They can
be very oily and you will see evidence of this if you buy them in wrapped in
paper.
Vigorón – Vigorón is a dish is based on a mound of cabbage salad. The
cabbage sliced very thin and is dressed with fresh tomatoes, onions, cilantro
and lime juice. Salt, pepper, sugar and cumin may be added to the dressing as
well. Served with it are usually long pieces of cooked yucca (cassava) and
chicharrón crocante, or crispy pork rinds. This salad dish is also used often,
without the yucca and pork rinds, as a side salad with traditional Casado
plate.
Chalupas – This is a messy delight that you should not attack using fingers,
fork and knife will serve you better and have plenty napkins ready. This dish
is also well known in Tex/Mex cuisine. The base of a chalupa is a crispy, fried corn
tortilla, topped with a hearty layer of ground beans, refried beans, red or
black, in Gringo/Mexican food-speak. The beans are followed by a layer of seasoned
ground beef, shredded pork or chicken. Then this great dish is crowned by a big
pile of lettuce or shredded cabbage, and it will likely be slathered with
ketchup and mayo. The first time I had this dish, being a novice at that time, I
thought the sauce on top was sour cream or natilla as it is called here. Boy
was I mistaken on the first bite, but needless to say it is still a great dish
to eat.
For some back up information,
the term “refried beans” is a mistaken translation, one that will never be
remedied thanks to chain restaurants and marketers and manufactures of this
food product . In fact, the beans are only fried once in the process. The
prefix re- in Spanish means a repetition, just as in English. However, the word
re is a modifier that means very or well. The proper translation from Mexican
Spanish for frijoles re fritos (three words) is really well-fried beans. This
really is no big deal because here in Costa Rica they are called frijoles
molidos or ground beans.
Morcilla – Morcilla is type of blood sausage, blood pudding (British),
moronga (Mexican) or blutwurst (German, older German-American). It is not as
popular in Costa Rica as in Spain or Mexico, but you will find it on some bar
boca menus. Tico morcilla is milder in taste and less aromatic than other
varieties, but still very good. It is usually served chopped up and fried with
onions, sweet peppers and other flavorings. You can have it served on rice or
in gallos. Many people cringe at the thought of eating blood, but that is part
of the excitement of traveling and experiencing different cultures and cuisines.
Besides it cannot be any worse than what goes into hot dogs, if you only knew
you would never eat another one!
Yuca – Yuca, or cassava, is a common component of bar food, as it is
in vigorón. However, it could be just the thing you might need or want a little
yucca in your system will help you make it through the toughest night out
drinking local beers like Imperial or Pilsen. Yuca frita is simply
small chunks of yucca, deep fried. It does not take up the oil like French
fries and sits very comfortably in your stomach. It is also far tastier, and a
small plate can easily be shared by two or more people. Usually severs with
tomato ketchup and mayonnaise mixed with fresh lime juice.
Patacones - also known as tostones , are fried
green plantain slices, and unlike chifles – very thin green bananas or green
plantain chips. Patacones are thicker and are always made with green plantains
(unlike chifles which can be made with green bananas) and are usaully serverd
warmed. The typical way to make patacones is to cut the plantain in ½ to ¾ inch
slices and fry them once untill they start to brown, then remove them and smash
them with a wood mortar and pestle to flatten them. Then fry them again until crispy and cooked
thru. Patacones are usually served with frijoles molidos and fresh pico de
gallo for dipping and are a great snack to have with cold beer sitting at beach
side bar.
Burritos – A burrito is a grilled wheat tortilla stuffed with beans, meat,
cheese, chicken, chicharrón, or whatever is on hand. It can be a bit dry as it
is not like the Mexican version topped with cheese and all sorts of things, but
makes a good medium-level snack. Often you will have to satisfy a burrito
craving from a stand near the bar.
Condiments – Mayonnaise and ketchup are universally offered and used,
liberally, on almost everything. Two things to remember: The yellow squeeze
bottle is mayo, not mustard; Costa Rican ketchup is much sweeter than the U.S.
version and comes in different thicknesses. Homemade chilera is common, a mixture of
marinated chili, onions, carrots and sometimes broccoli and cauliflower in
vinegar. Tabasco sauce and Chilero (hot sauce) is often available as well.
Salsa Lizano is a great table sauce that is made from “natural spices and
vegetables” according to a secret family recipe. Lizano has a sweet side to it
and sometimes compared to Worcestershire but thicker and has a hint of curry to
it as well.
Costa Rica may never have the reputation for its small dishes
that Spain does for tapas, but it’s time for Tico bocas to step out of the
shadows and let the world know how good they really are.